Kurunagala
Kurunegala is the capital of the North-Western
Province situated 58 miles from Colombo. There
is so much to see of historical value around
Kurunegala that the visitor is spoilt for choice.
It is an archaeological treasure chest with
four excavated sites, three of which used to
be royal capitals,. Extensive in area, they
are all set within the beautiful North-Western
Province of Wayamba. It is an ideal place for
some excellent excursions to fascinating temples,
hermitages, and archaeological ruins such as
the 2000 year old Ridigama Vihara, the flower
altar, Delft tiles bearing Christian scenes
- the gift of a Dutch governor, the Maha Vihare
with a sedent Buddha, a large reclining Buddha,
and an intricate ivory-paneled doorframe.
To the north of Kurunegala, at a distance of
24km, are the sixth century remains of a forest
monastery and caves. It was inhabited by the
Tapovana or forest-dwelling sect of austere
Buddhist hermits, and the remains include a
large tantaghara or hot water-bath (now festooned
with lotus flowers), long concrete, meditating
promenades through a wooded area, and a complete
hospital. This hospital is unique as it contains
a herb grinder and a large granite herbal bath
at the centre, carved out of stone with depressions
still visible where the monks would have
sat! Most of it is very well preserved.
Arankele was where many saintly monks lived
and meditated, the most well-known of which
was the Maliyadeva sect, to whom it was handed.
Before this, however, it is said that a king
resided here and that the long concrete ambulatories
would have once stretched to Sigiriya. Monks
reside here even now in a contemplative solitary
life reminiscent of the past. At least five
caves up the forested hillside have been discovered
where the original hermit monks lived. It is
a hard climb, though the remains of a meditation
hall and monks’ cells make it well worthwhile.
You will need a guide - hard to find, unfortunately
- though I learnt a lot about the area from
the caretaker of the grounds, Sunil Rathna.
During the reign of Dutugemunu in the second
century BC, silver ore was discovered at Ridigama,
which means “silver village.” Though
this discovery was made many years ago, artefacts
found within the Buddhist vihare (temple) and
cave hermitage site - such as Buddha statues,
Kandyan wall paintings and an altar given as
a present from a Dutch consul - date from the
comparatively recent 18th century. The most
notable feature here is an exquisite medieval
doorway with intricate carvings using ivory
as an inlay. The site is pleasantly situated
by a lake 18km northeast of Kurunegala.
Situated 27km northwest of Kurunegala, off the
Chilaw road, Panduwasnuwara is the oldest royal
capital in the district. It was made regal in
the fifth century BC under Sri Lanka’s
second king, Pandukabhaya, successor to Vijaya,
the founder of the nation. Though most of the
extensive 20ha archaeological remains date from
the 12th century AD, a forested mound has been
identified as Vijaya’s tomb, pointing
to the authenticity of Panduwasnuwara’s
history.
Surrounding the once-regal palace complex, are
the remains of an ancient fortified wall and
moat within which are the ruins of a palace,
a monastic complex, bathing pools and an audience
hall. There is also a restored temple of the
tooth within the grounds and a small museum
near the entrance that exhibits objects found
on site, such as coins, pottery and jewellery.
There are many interior Sri Lankan towns that
have mysterious mountains and towering rocks
as backdrops, and Kurunegala is one of them.
Thanks to its picturesque setting with eight
peaks, most especially the famed Elephant Rock,
Kurunegala has much that makes it remarkable.
Once an ancient capital, it also has a history
worth becoming acquainted with. Kurunegala was
a royal capital for only 50 years, from the
end of the 13th century to the start of the
next, though even before this it was strategically
placed in the middle of other majestic strongholds
such as Yapahuwa to the north, Dambadeniya to
the south and Panduwasnuwara in the east.
The town itself is a busy commercial hub surrounded
by rubber estates and coconut plantations. It
enjoys a beautiful position, situated beside
an ornamental lake that stretches a considerable
distance. There are some noticeable large rocks
that encircle and dominate the town. They are
very visible as you arrive in Kurunegala. Little
wonder that the town is always hot, for these
rocks increase and retain the heat of the day.
The largest is the dark rock, Etagala or Elephant
Rock (though the translation is actually tusker),
which at 325m is virtually unmistakable and
in any case has a sitting Buddha statue perched
on its summit.
Kurunegala's rocks, eight in number, rise from
the plain below. All have characteristic names,
six of which come from the animals that they
are imagined to represent. They are the Elephant,
as mentioned before, Beetle, Eel, Goat, Tortoise
and Crocodile. Legend has it that during a drought
these six animals were magically transformed
into rock since the residents feared they were
threatening the town's precious water supply.
It is up to you and your imagination to decide
whether the rocks live up to their names!
There are two more rocks that stand loftily
over the extended Kurunegala area, one with
its own legend. This is the towering Yakdessa
or She-Demon Rock, so-named because a princess
named Kuveni of the Yakka (demon) tribe, having
been forsaken by her husband, climbed the rock
to cry out her woes. It is apparently cursed!
The eighth rock is simply, though not imaginatively,
named Gonigala or Sack Rock. It is Etagala or
Elephant Rock, however, that overshadows the
town and can be climbed either by foot (rewarding)
or reached by transport (Rs200 by tuk tuk for
a return trip plus waiting time). From the top
are breathtaking views over the town of Kurunegala,
over the crescent-shaped lake, across to the
other rocks, and beyond to paddy fields and
coconut plantations.
Not even two years old, the magnificent seated
Buddha watches over the landscape. You can go
upstairs inside the base of the statue to see
a small, encased representation of the Buddha
and appreciate the small number of artefacts
enclosed within. A very popular place, it is
nice to appreciate it at sunset when the sun
descends directly behind the town and when the
air is a little cooler. If you are walking down
the steep steps carved into the sheer rock you
must be careful, as they are uneven and only
suitable for those with a good fitness level
and balance!
Ibbagala or Tortoise Rock, on the eastern side
of Elephant Rock, can also be climbed to reach
a small temple situated under an overhanging
rock. Here you can see a tiny replica of Adam's
footprint that is found on the summit of Sri
Pada (Adam's Peak). There is also a little dagoba
and some paintings depicting the Buddha and
his disciples.
Within the town there is not that much of interest
apart from the usual range of souvenir shops
and handicrafts. There are a few banks and some
communication shops with Internet facilities.
As for food, Kurunegala has a basic range of
local eateries, many of them offering Chinese
specialities.
Kurunegala, is described as a crossroads town
because it is located at the junction of routes
from Kandy to Puttalam and from Colombo to Anuradhapura.
However, though this does make the town a good
base for exploring many important ancient landmarks
a short distance away, it deserves to be recognised
for more than its convenience.
